Installing Your Own Exhaust
By: Blitzo 

Introduction:

It seems like every month or so, the question of how do I install my Team Moon pops up on SpyderChat.  The same information keeps getting posted again and again on what to look out for - how to remove the rubber hangers - what parts should I replace - should I take off the bumper - etc.  While I'm not really installing any specific exhaust system in this article, it should apply to just about any exhaust system - they all consist of a muffler and some pipes supported by rubber hangers.  While these methods are by no means the only way to do it, it's the easiest way I have found to do it after doing muffler swaps on a Spyder about a dozen times.

Exhaust System Layout:

The Spyder exhaust system is pretty simple.   There are three main components - the exhaust manifold, the catalytic converter, and the muffler.  An aftermarket exhaust system replaces just the muffler, but you will have to remove the catalytic converter to get the old muffler out and the new muffler in.

The fasteners and gaskets are also shown on the diagram.  The studs on the exhaust manifold are shown already installed in the exhaust manifold in the diagram, but are a replaceable part.  The three gaskets are pretty durable and can probably be reused without adverse effects, but they should at least be inspected thoroughly and replaced if they look charred or misshapen.  The two bolts and springs that connect the muffler to the catalytic converter are durable and can probably be reused as long as the threads have not rusted too badly.  The exhaust manifold studs and nuts are very soft and rust very badly.  It is recommended that they be replaced if they are more than about a year old.  They are easily damaged when removing the nuts, so they may have to be replaced no matter how careful you are at removing them.

The basic layout of the exhaust system

Parts from Toyota:

Before setting out on your install, if your Spyder is more than a few months old, I would automatically buy new studs and nuts from your local Toyota dealer.  They usually have to be ordered, but usually only take one or two days to order.  It's a cheap insurance policy for $8.  These are retail prices for the South East Toyota (SET) region.
Replace Description Toyota Part # Price Each
Highly Likely Cat to exhaust manifold nuts (Qty 3) 90179-10070 $1.31
Highly Likely Cat to exhaust manifold studs (Qty 3) 90116-10146 $1.43
Good Idea Cat to exhaust manifold gaskets (Qty 2) 90917-06065 $7.09
Not Likely Cat to muffler gasket (Qty 1) 17451-22060 $29.78
Not Likely Cat to muffler bolts (Qty 2) 90901-05020 $5.69
Not Likely Cat to muffler springs (Qty 2) 90501-35036 $3.51

 Parts from The Local Automotive Store:

Some of these supplies you will probably already have, but some you may need to run out and purchase.

Description Approx Price
14mm socket, extensions, and ratchet $20
12mm box wrench $3
10mm nut driver $3
O2 sensor socket (optional) $10
Floor jack and jack stands or ramp $15-$50
E10 Torx Socket (for manifold studs) $5 set of four
Long, narrow flat headed screwdriver (for prying rubber hangers) $2
PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench $3
WD-40 or equivalent $3
Antiseize lubricant $5
Floor creeper (makes life easier) $30
Torque wrench $50
These are the bolts from Toyota (from left to right) manifold studs, manifold nuts, and muffler bolts and washers

 
The fluids you will need (or equivalents)
The Bumper Debate:

There are basically two ways to take the stock muffler off - remove the catalytic converter, or remove the bumper and heat shields.  Some prefer one way, others prefer the other.  I strongly prefer removing the cat and taking the muffler out from underneath.  I think it saves a lot of time and is much easier in the long run.  

Removing the bumper involves removing 16 fasteners for the bumper, and 8 fasteners for heat shields.  Removing the cat requires removing 5 fasteners on the cat, 4 fasteners for the sway bar mounts, one rubber hanger, and the O2 sensor or it's wiring.  I have ignored removal of the vanity cover underneath the cat since you have to remove that for either method.  Even with the bumper removed, It is still very difficult and awkward to get the stock exhaust out because it is so monstrously huge.  You could probably do the bumper method without raising the car, but you will need to raise it if you pull the muffler out via the cat.  Removing the cat has the added danger of potentially damaging the O2 sensor - they are fragile and their wiring should never be stressed.  Removing the bumper has the added danger of marring the bumper or not getting it lined up properly during reinstallation (not likely).  Removing the cat has the added benefit of being able to inspect the pre cats in the exhaust manifold for damage (a common problem in Spyders).  Removing the bumper has the added benefit of not even having the possibility of damaging the exhaust manifold nuts or studs.  Decide for yourself which way is easier for you, but I still do it from underneath.

 

If you decide to go ahead with the cat removal method you still have two choices when it comes to the O2 sensor.  You can either remove it from the cat and leave it's wiring in place, or leave the sensor in place and remove it's wiring.  To remove the O2 sensor requires a special socket that has a hole in the side to allow for the wires to exit the side - see the figure to the right.  To remove the wiring involves removing the driver's taillight, disconnecting the connector, and removing the three mounting clips that hold the wiring to the bumper - the top one is easy, but the other two are more difficult.  It is conceivable that you could damage the wiring trying to remove the clips.  I choose to buy a $10 O2 socket and remove the sensor from the cat each time instead of struggling with the retention clips on the wiring.

Detail of using an O2 socket

 

Preparation:

Gather all your tools and supplies.
You will need to raise the car at least 6-8" to remove the stock muffler.  I use a floor jack to place the rear of the car on jack stands, but ramps or a lift will work great, too.
Let the car cool completely - the catalytic converter retains a tremendous amount of heat and WILL burn you if you handle it while it is hot.

Removal Procedure:

Remove the shield under the cat and set it and it's fasteners aside.
Remove the passenger side taillight and set aside.
Remove the passenger side exhaust shield from above to gain access to the right hanger.
Spray both topside hangers and the tailpipe and cat hanger with WD-40.  You are spraying the area where the rubber meets the pegs, not just coating the outside of the rubber.
Remove the O2 sensor from the cat or unplug it from the harness and free the wire (3 clips).
Spray the muffler-cat bolt threads and cat-manifold nuts and studs with PB Blaster.
Remove the two cat-muffler bolts and springs.
Remove 2 of the three nuts from the cat-manifold.
Partially remove the rubber hanger holding up the cat (details in the pictures below).
Remove the last nut on the cat-manifold.
Completely remove the cat from the rubber hanger.
Inspect the cat for any loose objects rattling around inside.
Inspect the manifold studs and replace any that are damaged in any way.  Excessive flaky rust and excessively shiny threads probably indicate that they need to be replaced.  If a stud pulls out on with the nut, it should also be replaced - the nut has probably seized on the stud because of excessive rust.  Go ahead and place a small amount of anti seize on the exposed threads of each stud.
Remove the 4 14mm bolts that hold the sway bar to the frame and let the sway bar hang straight down.
Unbolt the top drivers side hanger from the muffler with the 12mm box wrench.
Disconnect the top passenger rubber hanger about 80%.
Disconnect the tail pipe rubber hanger and let that side of the muffler hang down.
Undo the top passenger rubber hanger completely now and remove the muffler.
Start by sliding a narrow flat bladed screwdriver from the shaft side until the blade is even with the end of the peg

 
Now just pry the rubber off the peg using the tip of the screwdriver as the fulcrum and being careful that it does not slip off
Installation Procedure:
Inspect the cat-muffler gasket on the cat and replace as necessary.  Replace the two crush cat-manifold gaskets if they look charred.  You may need to use a wire brush to remove any flaky rust before seating the gaskets.
Move the rubber hangers from the old exhaust to the new muffler.  One of the hangers on the stock muffler has to be taken off by removing a bolt - the nut is welded to the bracket (if you removed the rubber from the frame instead).
Slide your new muffler into place and hang it on the rubber hangers.  Rock the muffler so it is hanging at its 'most comfortable' position.
Reinstall the passenger heat shield and the taillight from above.
Loosely install the cat back into the car by connecting the rubber hanger, then one manifold nut.  You should have already put a little anti seize on.
Install the rest of the cat-manifold nuts and tighten them- there is no play here.  Torque to 46 ft-lbs.
Loosely install the bolts and springs from the cat to the new muffler.  you might want to put a dab of anti seize on the threads to slow down the formation of rust.
Get from underneath the car or have a helper with a good eye assist you in getting the tips aligned. 
The cat-muffler joint will allow you to adjust the left-right tip forward-backward distance as well as relative height to a certain degree.  If things are way out of alignment, one of the hangers could have been damaged during shipping and might need to be bent back into place.
Tighten the muffler bolts and make sure that the muffler is allowed to move only slightly and does not move out of alignment.  Torque to 32 ft-lbs.
Reinstall the sway bar brackets.  Torque to 29 ft-lbs.
Reinstall or reconnect the O2 sensor in the cat. and reinstall the driver taillight if it was removed.
You may drop the car to the ground at this point to better check the adjustment and fit of the tips.  You still have enough room to get to the muffler bolts.
You will have to trim the right side of the rearward vanity cover before installing it into the car if you have an exhaust that now exits on the passenger side of the car.  Several inches have to come off.  Just trim an inch at a time and keep trying the fit until it looks good.
Go drive.
The car will smell like burning plastic for well over 100 miles.  It will slowly go away.
Check the alignment of the tips - if they keep moving off, that indicates one or more hanger bars are bent and need a little coaxing.