Introduction
Well, while
others are installing turbos and nitrous in their Spyders to blow the doors of
S2000s, I decided to go another route. Being
old and lazy, I just want a little luxury to go with my sport.
So I recently had seat heaters installed.
Following the install, the shop owner mentioned how nice it would be if I
could turn those heaters before I got to the car.
He suggested a remote starter.
Now, I used
to live in a high rise with a garage, but for the past 7 years, my living
arrangements dictate that I park on the street. And boy am I tired of defrosting my windshield on cold days,
so a remote starter sure sounded nice. At
$300 installed, it didn’t seem bad either.
Sold!
I got the Avitel Avistart
3200. (Check it out at their
website: www.directed.com or at the
manufacturer’s website at http://www.avital.com/products/ap_as32.htm).
They
don’t usually install remote starts in cars with a manual tranny, because of
the possibility of starting the car in gear (with potential for pedestrian
injury or damage to the car). But
mine’s an SMT, so there’s no chance of it starting in gear. I just have to leave it in “neutral”. The only downside is, the SMT WILL roll if left in neutral,
so you’re relying on just the handbrake.
And that could freeze in winter. Keeping
my fingers crossed that that doesn’t happen.
First
impression: this thing is sweet. In
addition to starting the car, it has nice little features like:
|
It
automatically locks the doors 3 seconds after the ignition is started. | |
|
It
unlocks the doors when you remove the key. | |
|
You can
set it to automatically lock the doors 30 seconds after you get out. | |
|
When
you press the "unlock" button on the fob, the dome light comes on. | |
|
When
you get out, the dome light stays on for a bit (like my ‘91 MK2). | |
|
You can
press a button on the remote to silence the "beeps" when unlocking
or locking the doors. | |
|
You can
set it to keep the car running while you remove the key (like if you’re
headed into the 7-11, and you want the car to stay warm). | |
|
And for
$180 extra, it will control your windows, too, but I didn't spring for that. |
Downside:
when you get out of the car, you need to think about what it is you want running
next time you get in the car, and set the controls appropriately.
Want the windshield defrosted? Better
remember to set the heater controls accordingly.
But having to think ahead is a small price to pay for a toasty warm car
on a ice cold morning!
The system
is designed to make the car pretty much theft-proof during the remote start.
Even if the engine is running, if someone tries to drive off without the
key, the ignition dies the minute they step on the gas.
And, for
added safety, there’s an ignition kill – 30 seconds after you turn it off,
the ignition kill kicks in. Then,
if someone tries to start it without the remote key fob, it won’t start, even
if they have the key. (There's a
valet button mounted in the car to turn that off, so you can give the car to a
parking attendant, etc.)
There’s
also a system-kill switch to turn the whole thing off.
In addition, your installer might mount the optional engine-cover
pinswitch, so if the engine cover is open, the car won’t start.
(My installer didn’t put that in.)
Though the shop told me the remote would transmit a quarter mile, that's under ideal conditions. Real world is MUCH less. You’ll find that you have to have some kind of line-of-sight to your car, and even then you’ll probably have to stand near a window to have it work. The installer mounted the antenna horizontally, on the windshield, behind the rear-view mirror, but reception there was poor. For maximum reception, antennas should ALWAYS be mounted vertically, and never horizontally. In this car, it's tough to find a good place to do that. I moved mine, so it's mounted at the top edge of the windshield (behind the rear-view mirror), pointing down. Thoough it's not fully vertical (it follows the angle of the windshield), reception is pretty good. If you think of a better place, let me know!
The
installer tells me it took the usual 3 hours to do the installation, but when he
was finished, the car kept throwing a CEL!
After 2 nearly-full days of working on it, he solved the problem.
He had told me from the start he'd need to install a bypass relay on the
brake pedal (since you have to depress the brake to start the car).
Seems the problem was that the brake pedal actually has 2 switches
attached -- 1 controls the bypass and, and the other controls the brake lights. It was throwing a CEL because he'd only bypassed 1 switch,
not both. The system was confused
cause it thought the brake lights should be on, and they weren't.
The
installer had to consult with both the manufacturer of the remote system and
Toyota to figure it out. But Avital
now has the info in their database, based on this install, so the info should be
available to future installers. According
to Avital, this is the first Spyder in the country to have their system
installed!
To use this
system, the installer has to mount a key under the dash to fool the immobilizer
into thinking there’s a key in the ignition.
(But it ONLY fools it during the actual remote start – it does NOT
defeat the immobilizer at other times.) This
is no small factor, because I’m told these keys cost about $90 to replace! [Editor's
Note: $30 at my local dealer]
But I never use the valet key, so that’s what I sacrificed.
If
you decide to spring for a new key to sacrifice, you’re your Toyota dealer
program the key’s chip, but don’t have them cut the key. That way, if someone finds it under your dash (unlikely),
they won’t be able to start the car with it.
(In the alternative, just cut the metal part off your key, and have the
installer mount the plastic head – the part with the immobilizer chip in it.)
Final
note: get your current remote lock module (if you have one) back from the
installer. There may be a market
for it on eBay, for Spyders that don’t have remote locks (2000's).
My installer said “it’s easy to install”, but this sucker has about
a thousand wires, and 127 plugs, so I’m not so sure!