TRD Rear Strut Brace Install
by Whelp

Disclaimer & Intro:
By no means is this the definitive guide to installing the TRD Rear strut brace. This is simply a quick write up of the experience I went through when I installed mine. I hope it helps anyone else that may have questions, but by no means is this a 100% official way to install the brace.
When I received mine this time the packing slip was there, along with instructions. Not only for the rear, but the front instructions too. Better late than never I guess. As for the rear instructions, I do not read Japanese and the pictures were not very informative. Luckily I had already hit the post boards and was prepared. All in all the installation took about 20 minutes. It probable could have been done in 10; I just like to be extra careful when working on my car. I also must apologize for one thing. I did not take a single picture of the area prior to the install. I got home right around 7:30 PM and found the box on my deck waiting for me. By then it was already dark outside. I ended up installing the brace while my wife shined the flashlight where I needed it.

Tools Used:
½ inch drive Torque Wrench
½ inch drive Ratchet
½ inch drive extender 3 inches in length
½ inch drive 14mm Socket

Installation:
I started by removing the stock braces at the strut mounts first. Using the ratchet, and NOT the torque wrench to loosen the nuts. I went ahead and removed all the nuts carefully placing them aside in the exact order I had removed them. That way I could use the same nut in the same place when I put them back on. After all the nuts from the rear struts were removed I then proceeded to remove the nuts from the firewall mounting points for the stock braces. Once those were off, a quick tug and what ya know no more stock braces. Damn that thing is light, kinda reminded me of braces from a kids swing set. Next I removed the stock washer things that were on the strut towers and placed then aside. Quickly I gave a quick pat on the head to our dog. She was curious as to what was going on and came over to check things out. I then put the bar in place. I started with the firewall mount first and then the strut mounts. Then I put all the nuts back in the same order I had taken them off, and tightened them all down by handed. After every thing was secure. I set the torque wrench to 35ft/lbs (note: the spec on the strut mounts is 59ft/lbs) and starting from the side closest to the motor I started tightening the nuts. As soon as I finished one nut on one side I would then move to the same nut on the other strut mount. Until I had all the nuts tightened down. Net I moved on to the firewall mounts and. I set the torque wrench for 30ft/lbs (note: the spec for the fir wall mounts is 55ft/lbs), and did the left side then the right side. Once all mount were tightened down I then set the torque wrench to the factory specs of 59ft/lbs for the strut mounting points and 55ft/lbs for the firewall mounts. I then tightened everything to spec, following the same procedure as above, and that was about it. We then ran up stairs, locked up the house, and went for a QUICK little drive. Came back home and watched FARSCAPE…

Impressions:
To be honest I did not feel any significant change in the handling dynamics of my Spyder. I have had the brace on for oh 3 weeks or so now, and have taken the spyder out for quite a few “Spirited drives”. The rear brace was no where near as impressive as the front one was. Now a LOT of this I attribute to the previous install I had completed with the Autopower roll bar. The Roll Bar had stiffened everything up remarkably!!!! All In all I like the way it looks over the stock one, and it is much, much stronger than the stock one. I am happy I have it and I am sure it would make a difference for someone that did not have a roll bar installed.
 

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