Fog light install.
The install itself took me 5 hours. Most time took
the wiring of the car. The connection to the battery and to the fog
lights is very easy. I’m not sure if this is the fastest way to get
results, but it will work and is according to the installation manual.
Why did it take so much time: The wiring harness,
which comes with the PIAA 1000 lights is far to short since it assumes
the battery is in front of the car, which it isn’t. Therefore you will
have to extend all the wires and wire them to the back of the car, so
you can connect them to the battery. I spent a lot of time figuring out
the best places to cut the wires and measuring the in-between pieces.
This, since you want to be able to replace part of the wiring when they
are damaged, the fog lights are not working, or, in my case, if you will
install a new body kit within a few days !
Pictures:
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1: This is taken in the front hood of the car.
Remove the cover and the spare tire trunk. It is attached with 4
screws. You then can go trough this rubber seal to get right behind
the glove box compartment to go on with wiring.
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2: Putting all the wires trough the seal. I
found that using a single wire it the easiest and the use that to
pull the other wires trough. First get the single wire trough the
rubber and behind the glove box, since that’s very difficult with
4 wires, since 4 wires are needed to wire the 2 fog lights.
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3:All the wires are trough the rubber. I used
tape to make it waterproof and used tie raps to secure the tape.
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4: Here the wires appear behind the glove box.
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5+6: I secured the wires in the front hood like
this: connecting them to another wire.
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7: Now I have to connect the original wire to
my extensions, so first I measured and looked how I would do that. I
needed 15-foot cables to connect the fog lights to the battery.
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8+9+10: Figuring out how to get this wire
behind the pedals. It’s the top blackish cable.
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11+12: Overview of the install area.
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13: I have to get the wires to the battery !
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14-18: There are two rubbers seals to the
engine compartment. To get to those, remove the compartment behind
the driver, and also the door sills and plastic behind the seat
belt.
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19-20 Arrange the cables neatly under the
doorsill.
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21. Make a nice cut in the upper rubber seal to
put the wires trough. I found I couldn’t reach for the lower one
in the engine compartment, also not after removal of the battery.
In total 7 wires went trough: 4 of the fog lights and 3 of the
control unit. Pictures of the install of this switch in the dash are
missing, since it is not finished yet! You need 3 8-feet cables to
connect the control unit.
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22-23 Connecting the PIAA wire to mine, using
connectors which can be reconnected.
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24-26 The seal in behind the driver: nicely
arrange cables before pulling them trough, since that will damage
the seal.
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27 All cables are connected in the front, with
enough slack to be able to adjust the system in the future !
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28 The signal for the fog lights is received
from the rear light, so that I didn’t have to install another
wire.
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29: The battery is removed. Look at the air
filter: a rechargeable one is installed as described in another
archive by Ken ! The PIAA box is connected to the strut bar. Also
the fog light cables are connected. Tape is used to keep it
waterproof.
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30: Here the cables enter the engine room
behind the battery.
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31-34: The signal cable is connected to the
green cable under the white one. This one powers the rear lights.
The blue connector is used for the connection. And everything is
taped to keep the water away.
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35: Fog lights have been installed, and now the
front is restored: In the middle you can remove the plastic, which
enables you to get behind the fog lights and connect the wires and
attach them firmly to the chassis.
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36. The battery is installed again, and the two
wires are connected. The manual omits to state which cable has to go
to the +, and it’s the white one (of course, but still…). The
black one goes to the – (negative)
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37: Finished. |