TRD Front Strut Brace Install

by Whelp

Disclaimer & Intro:

By no means is this the definitive guide to installing the TRD front strut brace. This is simply a quick write up of the experience I went through when I installed mine. I hope it helps anyone else that may have questions, but by no means is this a 100% official way to install the brace.

When I picked up mine from UPS (there was a wee bit of a mistake on my address when shipped), the packing slip was removed, and I received no instructions, or templates. I called the distributor to get the torque specs, along with a quick email to a fellow Spyder enthusiast to confirm the specs (You know who you are, and thanks once again). Then a 2-day wait until the weekend, along with an anti-rain dance. This was a fairly easy install with little trouble. I did not keep track of time, but I would say I started around 10:00am, and was washed up and ready to go by 12:30pm. Most of my time was spent on cutting and modifying the front cover.  For anyone not wanting to go the route of keeping the front cover, it should not take more than ½ hour at the most.

Tools Used:

bullet½ inch drive Torque Wrench
bullet½ inch drive Ratchet
bullet½ inch drive extender 3 inches in length
bullet½ inch drive 12mm Socket
bullet(That’s a lot of ½ inches… a 3/8 drive would probable be fine to use to, its just that my torque wrench is ½ inch drive so I just stuck with using ½ inch across the board)
bulletDremel Tool
bulletSanding Tip for Dremel Tool
bulletCutting Tip for Dremel Tool (Only went through 5 blades, that’s my best yet!!!)
bulletDremel Tool Wrench/Screw Driver (The one that it comes with)
bulletWire Clippers
bulletSharpie Marker Fine Point
bulletZip Lock Baggie

 Part I Cover Removal:

After removing the front compartment hatch cover, I used the Dremel tool wrench/screw driver to press down the middle piece of the clips that secure front cover in place. Then I would lift genitally on the edge of the cover closest to the clip, until it came out (lift too much and they go flying!!!). Once they were out, straight into the baggie they went.

Here are some pictures of the front end with the cover removed, and Strut mountings exposed.

Part II Cover Cutting:

This is where I spent my most time, and made 1 minor mistake. (I wish I had received a template). If you look at the cover closely you will notice directly above where the struts mount are there are 2 upraised circular shapes, one is a full circle, and one is almost a half circle. In the excitement I made the mistake of assuming that the full circle was directly over the strut mountings, and used it as my guide when I placed the strut tower brace on top of the cover to trace it for cutting.  Later I found out that it seems that the ½ circle is over the center of the struts. This was a not a big problem for me, its just added some more time to cutting and about a 1 inch larger section cut out on the cover in front of front strut brace mounts than was needed. The way I look at, my spyder is now that much lighter!

Now back to business!

After removal of the cover I placed it on my deck, and placed the brace on the cover in the position it would be in when attached to the car.

 

I used the marker to trace around strut brace at the areas looked like they would interfere with attaching the brace.

I started my cuts using the Dremel tool, at the inside area closest to the storage/spare tire area.

I don’t know about anyone else, but I hate cutting curves! While cutting I had the Dremel tool set at position 3 it cut well, but the blade would heat up the plastic causing it to melt during long cuts. I had gone through this once before when installing my Roll Bar. I found that my wire clippers were extremely useful in removing the melted plastic and for some de-burring, along with any on the fly modifications that might be need (Areas that were tight and needed a wee bit more room).  When I finished all of the cutting I changed the bit in the Dremel to one of the fine sanding bits to complete any de-burring that was needed. Here are a few pictures of the completed cuts, with the removed sections.

  

Part III Modified Cover & Front Strut Brace Installation:

Alright with the cuts complete (or so I thought) of I ran down to the car to put everything on. Using the ratchet and 12mm socket (Never use a torque wrench to do anything, but torque things to the proper spec.) I removed the 6 nuts that keep the struts in place (3 on each side), along with the strange washer things.

Next I placed the Strut Brace on the car and this was when I discovered my previously mentioned mistake. So I pulled out the marker, and with the brace in place, retraced. Then back up to the deck for the new cuts. Then Right back down to the car. I placed the Strut Brace back on and discovered that it fit well, but it was causing the cover clip holes on the passenger side to be knocked out alignment. If you look at the first picture directly above, you will notice an upraised section to the right of my original cuts. This covers the motor for the wiper blades. This upraise was pressing up against the brace causing the misalignment. So once again back to the trace, and cut cycle, and right back down to the car.

Here is a picture of the modified cover in place.

Ok all cuts, and modifications are finally completed, let’s slap that Strut brace on. I did not reinstall the washer things, I remembered seeing a few Posts that stated that they were not needed. I placed all the nuts on and hand tightened them as much as I could, then I used the ½ inch drive extender with the 12mm socket to tighten them down a wee bit more with my hands. I took the socket off of the extender and placed it on the Torque wrench. I then set the torque wrench for 20lb/ft and started with the nut closest to the spare tire compartment on the passenger side. I then did the corresponding nut on the driver side. Then I went back over to the passenger side and applied 20lb/ft of torque to the nut closets to the front end of the car. After it was done I went back over to the Driver side and did the same nut on that side. Back and forth I went until all the nuts were at 20lb/ft of torque. Please note that the spec is 29lb/ft. To be on the safe side and to help avoid applying to much torque, I usually apply about 2/3 of what spec is on all areas, and then go back and apply the spec.  So after each bolt was done at 20lb/ft I then set the torque wrench for 29lb/ft. Then I proceed with the same process and applied 29lb/ft of torque to all of the nuts. I than gave the Strut brace a quick shake, to see how stiff it was. Next I snapped a few pictures, and listened to the wife say that I should of let Her do the cutting, because She would have been better at it (She did not come down from the house to check things out until I was almost done using the torque wrench).  

Here are the picks of the completed install prior to reattaching all the cover clips.

What did I do next? Why I put all the tools away, washed up, and went for a spin. Now after installing the roll bar I noticed quite a difference in how the car felt (Even the Wife noticed it when She drove it to). Well the same applies here, WOW! The front end feels, much more solid and stable. If ya like to take corners fast, place your order today! Now I just have 6 more days before UPS drops off the rear Strut Tower brace, I can‘t wait, and even better NO cutting required with that one!!!

 Hit Counter People have read my article!

By: Whelp

00 Spectra Blue Spyder AKA Splat

Modifications to date:
bulletTRD Air Filter
bulletTRD Front Strut Tower Brace
bulletTRD Alum. Int. Pkg.
bulletDave Turner/Auto Power Roll Bar
bulletR.S. Antenna
bulletA mix of TRD & J-Spec badges